DSLRs

Wait wait wait, so to use auto-focus (obviously, because I'm in front of the camera), I better get 1.8 rather than 1.4, because it's easier to work with focus? I've read reviews about 1.4, and most of them say its MUCH better than 1.8, however, they probably talk when someone is behind the camera, in control. So any clarification on that?

Also, regarding DoF -- yeah, I'd love to have some blur in the background and more focus on myself, but I guess when I'm not behind the camera, it's much too tricky to accomplish. No?

So, at the end of the day, which lens should I get considering that I'm NOT behind the camera, therefore, I will be using auto-focus (no other solution)? I'm also about the same distance like William Phan's beginning of the video, maybe I'd like to go a little wider; and movement is also about the same, maybe slightly more once in a while. However, I do plan to do different angles.
 
Shlanga said:
Wait wait wait, so to use auto-focus (obviously, because I'm in front of the camera), I better get 1.8 rather than 1.4, because it's easier to work with focus? I've read reviews about 1.4, and most of them say its MUCH better than 1.8, however, they probably talk when someone is behind the camera, in control. So any clarification on that?

Also, regarding DoF -- yeah, I'd love to have some blur in the background and more focus on myself, but I guess when I'm not behind the camera, it's much too tricky to accomplish. No?

So, at the end of the day, which lens should I get considering that I'm NOT behind the camera, therefore, I will be using auto-focus (no other solution)? I'm also about the same distance like William Phan's beginning of the video, maybe I'd like to go a little wider; and movement is also about the same, maybe slightly more once in a while. However, I do plan to do different angles.
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It's easy enough to use manual focus if you go with a model with a flip-out screen like the t4i
 
Shlanga Even if you buy a f/1.4 lens you can stop it down to f/1.8 or f/12 if you want. So it doesn't hurt to buy the faster (lower number) lens since the body can change the f-stop for you to reduce the bokeh (DoF/background blur).

I don't have a swivel display so instead I use the HDMI out port and display it on my tv to see what I'm filming. You can do that with any screen or laptop that supports HDMI out. There's also the option of usb out to a computer or composite video. That way you can still manually focus while front of the camera, just don't expect to be able to change the planes of focus while filming.

So if you want flexibility then get the fastest lens you can afford, keeping in mind that you want something wide (under 35mm) if you are going to shoot from just a few meters away, but want to capture a wider screen. If budget isn't an issue, get a Canon L series lens.
 
William Phan said:
Shlanga Even if you buy a f/1.4 lens you can stop it down to f/1.8 or f/12 if you want. So it doesn't hurt to buy the faster (lower number) lens since the body can change the f-stop for you to reduce the bokeh (DoF/background blur).

I don't have a swivel display so instead I use the HDMI out port and display it on my tv to see what I'm filming. You can do that with any screen or laptop that supports HDMI out. There's also the option of usb out to a computer or composite video. That way you can still manually focus while front of the camera, just don't expect to be able to change the planes of focus while filming.

So if you want flexibility then get the fastest lens you can afford, keeping in mind that you want something wide (under 35mm) if you are going to shoot from just a few meters away, but want to capture a wider screen. If budget isn't an issue, get a Canon L series lens.
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Thanks!

Well, I'm pretty much going for very similar positioning like you have in the beginning of that video of yours. Maybe a little wider, and little more movement, but nothing significant. Also, once in a while (rarely), I'd like to have a much wider shot (2, maybe 3 times wider than that). The only thing I'm now confused about is how will it look with 50mm lens, and how will it look with 20mm, and is there any real benefit to getting something in between the two, rather than aiming for specifically 50 or 20?
 
Shlanga said:
So, at the end of the day, which lens should I get considering that I'm NOT behind the camera, therefore, I will be using auto-focus (no other solution)? I'm also about the same distance like William Phan's beginning of the video, maybe I'd like to go a little wider; and movement is also about the same, maybe slightly more once in a while. However, I do plan to do different angles.
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If you're not going to have a full time camera operator and possibly focus puller, are you sure you're barking up the right tree? It sounds to me like a crazy hard thing you're trying to do - I was really keen to get a 650i for filming stuff, and then ditched the idea, as its focus hunting makes any autofocus shot unusable.

Coupled with the fact that you want a narrow depth of field, I'm afraid you might be disappointed when every wonderful shot you make is ruined by the autofocus tweaking itself by going "in focus, out a little, back the other way, oops too much, back again to where I started" and it's a BIG problem with DSLR autofocus.

Before you spend all your money, play with one somehow, even use it in the shop, and note how often that darned autofocus keeps fiddling! :)
 
Shlanga said:
Thanks!

Well, I'm pretty much going for very similar positioning like you have in the beginning of that video of yours. Maybe a little wider, and little more movement, but nothing significant. Also, once in a while (rarely), I'd like to have a much wider shot (2, maybe 3 times wider than that). The only thing I'm now confused about is how will it look with 50mm lens, and how will it look with 20mm, and is there any real benefit to getting something in between the two, rather than aiming for specifically 50 or 20?
Click to expand...

First thing you want to consider is how far the camera is from you. The further it is, the wider the shot, since you are pulling back or essentially zooming out with your feet. If you want the camera close to you, then you need a lower number mm (10mm-35mm range) in order to get a wide shot. If you can have the camera a fair distance from you, then a 50mm will still capture a wider picture.

Specific lens that have one number on it, like 18mm, 35mm, 50mm means it's a prime lens, and it only shoots that width. If you get a lens like mine a 16-35mm that means it can zoom any width between 16-35mm.
 
chrisbitz said:
If you're not going to have a full time camera operator and possibly focus puller, are you sure you're barking up the right tree? It sounds to me like a crazy hard thing you're trying to do - I was really keen to get a 650i for filming stuff, and then ditched the idea, as its focus hunting makes any autofocus shot unusable.

Coupled with the fact that you want a narrow depth of field, I'm afraid you might be disappointed when every wonderful shot you make is ruined by the autofocus tweaking itself by going "in focus, out a little, back the other way, oops too much, back again to where I started" and it's a BIG problem with DSLR autofocus.

Before you spend all your money, play with one somehow, even use it in the shop, and note how often that darned autofocus keeps fiddling! :)
Click to expand...

So what would you say is the best solution for self-recording and making it look decent? Not what most vloggers do on YouTube. I'm doing this on a green screen using good lighting, tripod.

William Phan said:
First thing you want to consider is how far the camera is from you. The further it is, the wider the shot, since you are pulling back or essentially zooming out with your feet. If you want the camera close to you, then you need a lower number mm (10mm-35mm range) in order to get a wide shot. If you can have the camera a fair distance from you, then a 50mm will still capture a wider picture.

Specific lens that have one number on it, like 18mm, 35mm, 50mm means it's a prime lens, and it only shoots that width. If you get a lens like mine a 16-35mm that means it can zoom any width between 16-35mm.
Click to expand...

I guess I'll go for 16-35 or something in that area as well. Sounds like the best solution.
 
Shlanga said:
So what would you say is the best solution for self-recording and making it look decent? Not what most vloggers do on YouTube. I'm doing this on a green screen using good lighting, tripod.
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You haven't really gone into much detail on what you'll be making.. is it vlogging in a studio? or walk and talk vlogging or drama filmmaking?
 
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